Hawaii

Time: Oct 30, 2014 – Nov 3, 2014

Place: Maui, Hawaii

Company: Wife and Daughter

Highlights:

Prologue: Since the time we moved to West Coast, Hawaii was always a dream vacation. What with direct flights being served from LA, I thought it was an easy trip to plan. Even went to AAA to get details on the package and was just one step shy of booking. However, it never happened. And for some reason, the ticket prices soared upwards of $500 per person, and it seemed unreasonable! So, kept pushing it out. Finally, after 2.5 yrs in west coast, the time came…

One of the main reasons for visiting Hawaii was to see the active volcano on the Big Island. But research (and some discussions with few folks who had already visited) led us to believe that seeing lava is not an everyday affair and that weather should permit such luck. Other than the active volcano, the Big Island was not that popular. Further calculations led us to believe that visiting 2 islands would cause about $1000 extra. So, we figured that it wasn't that worth it, and dropped the idea of visiting Big Island.

Research on the other islands led us to shortlist on Kauai and Maui. Both wife and me weren't very interested in Oahu since it was so commercialized. We further narrowed it down to Maui since it seemed to have more attractions than Kauai. Some of the best sites on Hawaii such as gohawaii.com, hawaiigaga.com, hawaiiguide.com gave ample information on things to do and what to expect.

It was 19^th Oct when we were ready to book the flights for the most economical date. Google.com/flights showed that the best date would be 10/30 – 11/3. Any other date would increase the ticket rate by almost $50 per person! So, we hastily checked some “bnb”s but none were available. So, went with the usual option of hotel booking as well as car booking – all done independently with economic rates. The same 3 chosen itinerary (flight plan + hotel room + car type) were not available in the package option. So, off we went to Maui.

Day 1: Had planned to stay at a friend’s place overnight in Santa Clara to catch the 8 am Hawaiian flight to OGG airport from SJC. It was a pleasant enough flight with little turbulence. Was surprised to see light breakfast being served with steel forks! Once we landed at Maui, the heat wave hit us even in the airport. The airport resembled a bus station back in Bangalore! With no centralized air conditioning and walls opened to let the air come in, the sweat started pouring right there!!

Took the car seat, hopped on the shuttle to car rental, got VW Passat and then headed straight to Monsoon Indian restaurant in South Maui, since it was almost noon. It was a good ocean-facing restaurant with nice cuisine. Lunch done, we drove further south to the farthest point called Makena Beach (also called Big Beach). This beach has one of the finest sands and wonderful color of the ocean ranging from aquamarine blue to turquoise green. Basked in the afternoon sun for a while and then headed north. Our next stop was Kamaole Beach Park I. This beach did not have robust waves as Makena Beach, instead it had light refreshing waves that broke even at the shore – ideal for a nice walk or a jog with the feet caressing the lightly crashing waves. The waves had this buttery crunchiness which made it all the more worthwhile to spend as much time as possible. We walked a long way on this crashing shores and took some great pics. Finally headed for the night to Maui Seaside hotel, on the way stopping for basic groceries like milk, water, fruits to last us through the trip.

Maui Seaside hotel is no resort and hence there are no resort fees. However, there is parking fees of $5 per day. It is an economical hotel – meant only for the purpose for a decent night halt with a close-by restaurant, which is exactly what needed a hotel for. But one of the main reasons for us to choose this hotel was its strategic location to all the highlights of Maui. It was located within 2 miles of Maui airport in Kahului, it was a short distance (about 30-45 minutes) to Lahaina in the west and Wailea in the south. It was also very close to the beginning of ‘Road to Hana’ as well as to Haleakala Crater. The only thing it was missing was beach-access! But that would be too much to ask!

Our initial plan was to visit Haleakala on Day 2 since body was still not accustomed to the 3 hr time difference. However, weather.com predicted showers on Haleakala on Day 2 and hence we changed plan to visit Hana on Day 2.

Day 2: This road to Hana has the maximum number of winding roads that can ever be imagined. Although Hana is just 30 miles away, it takes almost 3 hrs to reach! At times, it becomes too much and it is better to take frequent halts and stops to admire the natural beauty surrounding all around. Luckily, there are good websites on ‘Things to do on Road to Hana’. The best one we found was http://www.hawaiigaga.com/road-to-hana.aspx.

The key to this expedition is leaving early. Thankfully we left early at about 6:30 am. The first sight of Hookipa was exhilarating. Our first stop, however, was the Waikamoi Ridge Trail. But within the first few minutes, we realized that there was more that this road had to offer than this nature trail and hence, we returned and continued on. After a short pit stop at Kaumahina State park, our next stop was at Keanae lookout for a breath of fresh air. It has awesome views of the crashing waves and nice tropical greenery all around.

Then, the little one slept off in the car, and we didn’t want to stop at any place. So kept surging forward, promising ourselves to check back in on the road back. Still, we stopped at Wailua Falls which is right across the bridge with its sprawling views. Continued ahead to the last point which we wanted to see – the final destination: Haleakala Visitor Center. Still the little daughter was sleeping. So gently woke her up. Time was 11: 30 am.

Fed her some packed food and started on the pipiwai trail. We had decided on a short hike until only the first lookout point. But even that was strenuous, what with the trail steadily climbing. It was also very hot and very soon we were all sweating. Nevertheless, it was a rewarding experience to see the waterfalls. Thankfully, although the clouds were always hanging over our heads and sometimes drizzling, it was not really raining. After the lookout, we headed back to the visitor center and then took the trail to the sacred Oheo Gulch pools. This is a short loop trail which leads to one of the magnificent views of the magnanimous Ocean with its crashing waves. It is a scenic beauty to behold for quite some time. Even the freshwater pools were nice to see.

Finally, left the place and headed on the way back. It was 2 pm already. Our next stop was Waianapanapa State Park. There are a lot of things to do here – a trail to a cave, a trail to black sand beach and another trail to Blowhole where the ocean kinda makes a hissing sound when it surges through rock holes that it has carved over so many years. We went only to the black sand beach and the blowhole and skipped the cave, mainly because there was a cave even at the black sand beach – a sort of two way cave that opened at the beach as well as at the back to the ocean! There were many arches on the rocks, similar to the one which we saw on Cabo.

It was almost 4 pm when we left this place. With only 2 hrs of daylight remaining, we wanted to finish as much of the winding road as possible. We were able to do just that since we did not stop anywhere else, other than couple of short breaks to get some fresh air. The little one still fell sick and we had to take care of her at some places.

At about 6 pm, we reached Hookipa and there was only very little rays of sunlight left for us to see the massive waves and surfers, for which this beach is famous for. Yet, it was fulfilling to see this dynamic nature of the waves – almost invigorating!

Since it was Halloween Day, there were people wearing costumes in the town of Paia. There was a costume parade at Lahaina which we had initially planned but later changed since we read that it would involve about 30,000 people. We didn’t want to get stuck in the traffic on a vacation! Anyways, after a short stop at McD’s, we retired for the night.

Day 3: After a strenuous Day 2, we relaxed on day 3. Got up quite late, had late breakfast at the hotel itself, got ready by about noon and visited Iao State Park at about 1 pm. It was just a 10 minute drive from our hotel. This has nice short treks. After some pictures, we headed to Lahaina in the West. This road is awesome too, with expansive views of the ocean. At one lookout, there is almost a 180 degree angle of pure ocean view. Also studded along the coast is a series of beaches with calm waves. Very different from both South Maui (Makena), North maui (Hookipa) and East Maui (Oheo Gulch lookout).

Our first stop was at Front Street on Lahaina which is considered as one of the top 10 best streets in America! Had nice lunch at India Express, then relaxed under the Banyan tree. It was fascinating that although the temperature was almost 90 degrees, under the tree, it felt like it was in 70s! The tree is fascinating, with roots bridging across tree trunks in wide arcs! While the missus shopped, I just relaxed on the bench while the little one pranced around. Then we drove on the Front Street all the way, until it met the main highway to Kaanapali/Napili.

On the way to Kaanapali, it started raining lightly and as a result, there was a beautiful full rainbow to our right. Took some pics with the rainbow and continued ahead. Since it was drizzling here, we realized that there was no point to go to Kaanapali beach, and headed back to anyone of the beach near Lahaina with good sunset view. Chose one random beach and spent time until the sun set. It wasn’t all that great since it set under a mountain as against the sea which I had hoped. Yet, it was soothing.

Day 4: Had read lot about Haleakala sunrise, had seen some good videos as well. All of then had suggested leaving at 2:30 am to reach the summit at 4 am. We followed everything to the book, even with a 4 year old! Got up at 2:30 am, reached the top at 4 am despite heavy clouds, despite the weather prediction that it was going to rain. From 4 am till 6 am, we sat in the car, covered in blankets. It was oh-so-cold at the top. An elevation gain on 10,000 ft in just 30 miles, 1.5 hrs was astounding. While the road to Hana were tiny Ss, the road to Haleakala crater is big Zs, but there are innumerous of them. So even this stretch of 30 miles takes over 1.5 hrs. The last 2 miles were quite tough, what with extreme winds and near zero visibility since we were in the midst of thick clouds. So I drove right on the middle of the road knowing fully well that no one will be driving down the mountain. When I saw the board ‘Haleakala Visitor Center’, I breathed a sigh of relief.

Parked the car and took some rest. Missus wasn’t feeling all too well due to the winding road but the little one slept all through. At 6 am, the cloud was still there, the fog was still thick. The Sun had risen but we could not see it anywhere. So, all the effort went in vain. We just passed the time walking about here and there, and took some pics. Then, on the way back, we saw the board pointing road to summit. This made us realize that we were not really at the summit, despite being on the mountain at 4 am!! The reason is this board to summit is only mentioned while exiting the visitor center, not while entering. So, at 4 am in the night in the middle of cloud, there is no easy way to see a road forking sharply to the right from the visitor center parking lot. Well, considering that the visitor center has restroom service, it is just as well that we were here and not at the summit. 

Yet, when we reached the summit at about 8 am, the clouds had dispersed and the sun was way up top, under another set of clouds. And we were on top of clouds. So, we were in the layer between two sets of clouds. It was an amazing sight – the kind of a view that a mountaineer usually gets when he is atop some remote mountain, when all around there is just cloud to see below you. If only there was no cloud that morning when sun rose, if only we had reached the summit and had better visibility – there was that slight bit of disappointment that we could not experience what is considered as the best sunrise point ever. Even at 8 am, I could see the reddish streaks of the sun rays on the clouds and it was brilliant. Maybe if we had come up here even at 7 am, it would have been a worthwhile scene. Well, lots of maybes and if onlys.

Headed downhill and there was no more cloud cover. We could see all the way to the ocean on all sides, and even see the town of Kahului. We reached at about 10:30 and took it easy thereon. Just lazed in the hotel and saw the Maui Visitor Channel on TV which airs some of the best information related to Maui. Finally, at about 2 pm, we saw a documentary on the top 10 beaches of Maui and realized that Wailea beach is something not to be missed. So, headed back to south Maui.

Wailea beach parking is nestled amidst resorts and it looks as if we are entering private gateways but it is actually open to public. Once parked, there is a nice paved walk that skirts the beach on the border of the resorts. We walked behind the Andaz resort and onto the beach. It was indeed another beautiful beach and the waves had the right measure of playfulness – not too soft nor too threatening. The little one enjoyed a lot, and for the first time I ventured to take her as much inside as possible to make her completely wet. The access to showers is just across the beach and is handy. After enjoying another sunset (this time behind cloud), we just walked on the beach again. Mr Sun had not allowed us to see himself rise or set twice. Be it as it may, we were actually having a heavy heart to be bidding adieu to Maui, since it was our last beach and our last night at Maui.

Near to our hotel is Maui mall inside which is a Thai restaurant dubbed as one of the finest in Maui for many years. True to the certificates posted all around, it indeed had one of the finest Thai cuisines.

Day 5: We had covered pretty much all that Maui had to offer. There was one thing we had missed – it was the Polynesian dance called Hula that Hawaii is famous for. Apparently, it is extremely pricey in the resorts. However, we chanced upon a magazine which said that the Queen Kaahumanu center had free Hula organized in their shopping center every Monday at 10:30 am! The center was 0.5 mile away from our hotel and hence was not all that distant from airport. What luck! We checked out at 9:30 am and had our seats for the 10:30 am Hula show. It was indeed a nice experience – a true traditional Hawaiian sing and dance program. Although, it was getting late for us, and we left at 10:50 am. Returned the car at 11 am, took the shuttle back to airport and back on our way to home!

 

Epilogue: Persuaded by the rental agent, I took a full tank prepay option for the car and when I returned it back, I still had about 5 gallons left in it despite all the day long trips in the island of Maui for last 4 days. So, advice is not to fall for that option. All in all, drove 356 miles in the 5 days that we were in Maui. Despite being in Maui for 5 days, still felt like staying a day or two extra to do some activities such as snorkeling or any other water sports activity, or maybe even visit a neighboring island, etc. I guess there is never enough of Hawaii to see in just one trip! Another fantastic place and another memorable vacation.