Antelope Canyon

Time: March 29 – April 2, 2016

Place: Page (Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend) & Las Vegas
Company: Wife and Daughter
Highlights:

Prologue: To visit Antelope Canyon was an year long dream (or maybe more). We forgot when we came to know about this place or how but looking at the pictures, we really felt like visiting it. The fact that we had traversed right through it in December 2012 gave us a huge dismay but the consoling thing was that the light rays in December would not have been that good anyways. So it was ok to visit those parts again. March end seemed like a good time to visit with not much crowd, not too cold and good enough sunlight. So we booked the flight tickets, the tour tickets, the hotel tickets, the car just about a month back and we were ready to go!

Day 0: Left home at about 4:30 pm in car to ParkSFO – long-term parking for SFO. With a coupon, it seemed reasonable. Reached airport at about 6 pm. Took the southwest to Las Vegas at 8:30 pm. All three of us flew free - with points. For the first time ever in life, flying for free!! Reached Vegas at 10 pm. Shuttle to rental car. Quite a long line to shuttle itself. Not a good designed airport, looks like. Sixt & Fox folks need to take double shuttle. Thank God, we had Budget. Got a new black Nissan Versa. Good enough. Drove to our Super 8 for the night, and retired.

Day 1: Extremely sumptuous breakfast. Very fulfilling. Left hotel at 9 and drove north towards to St George. Unlike in 2012, this time I was ready for the Virgin River Gorge – with its beautiful winding roads across the rocky valley. Took exit towards Zion National Park. At Hurricane (city), found a play area for kids, and rested for Tontu to play on swing for some time. Had little snack, debated whether to go to Zion or not (as per original plan) since drive-through costed $30. Decided yes, and continued on. Lost a turn, and had to drive back for about 5-10 minutes. Then headed towards to Zion. Just at the entrance, mother and daughter had some motion sickness issues that had to be taken care. Thankfully had a nice restroom nearby. Once done, we went to a Thai restaurant (Thai Sapa) – the same one which we had relished in 2012. Excellent service, and the waiter happened to be an ex-National Park Serviceman. So he gave us a rundown of some hikes including the Angel’s Landing. Now, although, our plan didn’t include any hike or trail on Zion (just a pass-through), we suddenly started thinking ‘why-not’ – at least on the way back. It would be hectic, as well as some plan changes, but still why-not.

Anyways, started driving uphill towards Zion’s exit on the other side and we were welcomed to some amazing cliff structures. The tunnel was amazing too. Last time, we had driven the other way at night and hence had missed all of this. Stopped at Checkerboard vista point for some snaps and continued on. We saw some mountain goats posing for us and then we were out of the Zion’s reddish roads. We had planned to go to Page via a lesser-known road called Johnson Canyon to admire Grand Staircase but we somehow missed the exit. When we finally found it, we were shocked to see that it was unpaved. We couldn’t risk to go on an unpaved road, checked with a local and even he said he had never been on it. So had to strike off one of our to-do things in our trip plan. Instead took the highway, and headed straight to Page.

During 2012, we had driven the other way back and hadn’t realized that the cliffs to our right were indeed Grand Staircase. But that knowledge helped us to scrutinize them further this time. It was quite grand indeed. Just near to Page, we found Wahweap Overlook. It was a nice vista point for Lake Powell view just before the Glen Canyon dam. Took some pics at the windy place and headed to our Super 8 hotel. Ordered a pizza from pizza hut, discussed a lot on what to do with Zion and Angel’s Landing, and finally decided to stick to originally planned itinerary. Although reached hotel at about 7 pm, ended up straining ourselves unnecessarily (researching) for about 2-3 hours. Instead could have rested.

Day 2: Once again a fantastic breakfast. This was all-inclusive continental. Thoroughly enjoyed. Today was the big day, and there was huge dependence on Sun and clouds. Thankfully, we were blessed with a near-clear sky with sun shining down on us. A short 10-minute ride took us to Ken’s tours of Lower Antelope Canyon. We had the 9:40 am tour booked. As the guide took us to the steep steps that led down the Earth’s level to the slot canyons, we positioned ourselves to be the last in the group. Flip side of this is that we cannot hear much of what the guide explains. But the best part of this is that we get to take lots and lots of pictures, since we would have almost 10-15 minutes before the next group catches up to us. As we descended, we got to see the natural carvings of flash flood water and it is surreal. Although we had seen many videos of this exact venue, it is only when we see with our naked eyes that we can truly appreciate the experience and the beauty. Paavani had great adventure with ladders and claustrophobic canyon walls. The guide was very patient with us and allowed us all to take as many pictures as we wanted. After we reveled in the picture-taking and walked for almost 1.5 hrs in the serpentine canyon route, we came to the end, which is actually the opening for the flash floods to enter. So we were walking all the time in the reverse order – from lower depths to earth level via a series of ladders. This coming out of the crack of the earth seemed so unearthly! And with that, we were done with Lower Antelope Canyon.

Our next tour of Upper Antelope Canyon was at noon but we had to report at 11 am. As per what we had researched, the site for Upper was right opposite Ken’s tours across the highway - Antelope Canyon Navajo Tours. So, just a minute’s drive and we were there. 

Tip#1: Upper charges $8 per person for Navajo permit whereas Lower charges $8 per family. But if you show Lower’s receipt to Upper, then the $8 per person is waived! But if you go to Upper first and then Lower, then you end up paying the $8 per person. So we got lucky booking Lower first. In fact, we had initially thought that Lower was without tours but a casual chat with a friend of mine who had visited informed that Lower was through tours only too, which resulted in research and subsequent booking.

Tip#2: Upper Canyon tour with Antelope Canyon Navajo Tours is nearer than anyone else because they are right at the entrance. Any other tour company is located somewhere in Page, and they have to go through this tour company property (add almost 15-20 minutes of drive one-way). 

After munching up some snacks and killing time till noon, it was soon time for us to depart. For Upper, we had to go on a bumpy 3 mile 10-minute truck ride to the mouth of the Upper Antelope Canyon. Unlike Lower, Upper is like a huge natural triangular Earth tent with a tiniest shadow of light filtering through the opening. Hence the rush for the lunch time, to see the Sun beams cast its glory to the canyon floors via the myriad shapes and canyon wall carvings. The guides here were expert in photography and suggested us all the right configuration to get the right pastel shades. I am no camera expert and without the guide’s excellent suggestion, the whole Upper Antelope Canyon album would have been a black and white mess! In fact the guide even helped most of us to keep the camera at unique angles to get the right shots – such as some US president faces, wolf face, a heart, sunrise, sunset, bird flying, etc. It was hard to get a family picture since there were too many people. And unlike Lower, in which we enter at one end and exit at the other, here we enter and exit at the same place. So we have to head back the way we came, thus leading to lot of traffic issues inside! 

Despite all this, Upper Antelope Canyon is beautiful too. Maybe it is because we went to Lower first, we liked it better but Upper is as good. There are no ladders, it is just plain walk and hence Tontu didn’t have that much fun. She was tired of all the canyon walls since it was almost 3 hours, and she wanted to head back. We were blessed with good sun beams in both Lower and Upper canyons, so we were pretty contented. It was worth travelling 2 hours in flight and driving almost a day to get to see this! Bumpy ride back and we were back to our car at about 1:30 pm.

Headed back to Lower Canyon visitor center to buy a magnet. On the way, stopped at roadside for a scenic photo. Kept my glasses on the car, and forgot clean about it, and drove away. Alas, by the time I realized (which was in a Mexican restaurant in Page) and went back to the spot, my glasses were broken, thanks to a car that has gone over it. Morose, returned back to hotel room, since we were pretty exhausted and there was nothing significant to do anyways. Took some rest and unfortunately, I had to attend a 5 pm office call which went on till 7 pm. So even though, we had plans of going to Marble Canyon and Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, we had to forgo it. With the happenings of the day, we were ok with it. Retired early.

Day 3: After another nice sumptuous breakfast, we checked out of the hotel and headed to Horseshoe Bend trailhead which is again a short ride from Page. Trail was less than 20 minutes and not strenuous. Soon, we were at the edge of the cliff overlooking at the Horseshoe Bend of the mighty Colorado river. It was indeed quite a scene. Thanks to the natural wonder, there is a huge overlook area, and hence even if the place is crowded, there is always a place to see. The cliff is about 1000 ft drop and hence one has to be extremely careful. We took about gazillion pictures from all possible angles with all possible permutations - individual, family, individual selfie, family selfie, just the bend, videos, etc. and spent almost an hour basking in the beauty. Then headed back to the car.

We again went to the same Mexican restaurant and had an early yet heavy lunch. Then we were on our way back to Vegas. But we felt we had quite a bit of time and hence took it easy. We went to Glen Canyon dam, went to the visitor center to search for another magnet (since we thought we lost the one which we had bought the previous day) but it was futile. Took some nice pics of the dam, and finally we were on our way. It was about 1 pm when we left Page finally.

All the way, we took pics of Grand Staircase as it paralleled our road. Excellent scenery all through. This time, we didn’t go through Zion & took the highway route. At Hurricane, we stopped at the same exact park where we had stopped on Day 1. Some snacks, some play in the park, fuel refill and back on our way. Once more through the Virgin River Gorge – same excellent landscape – and then dry desert miles together. We had decided on going to the Valley of Fire route, and hence took the appropriate exit. I was hoping it was a 30 minute diversion but it was not so. It was quite a long deviation indeed. After we left the highway, we drove almost 30 minutes just to get to the entrance of Valley of Fire. But once we entered, it seemed worth it. There are a bunch of rocks with cave-like holes in them and with the Sun setting, the park indeed seemed like on fire. It was orange-ish all around (especially more so with the sunglasses on), and mesmerizing indeed. We felt we should have come a bit earlier without having the Sun threatening to set on us. So we had to hurry around, especially to some of the shorter hikes. But to be fair, the park actually needs one whole day for itself, since most of the trails are pretty lengthy. So despite the setting sun, we felt we were on short change. But with whatever time we had, we saw whatever we could and took pics.

Finally, with no more stops, we headed straight to our same hotel in Vegas as on Day 0. This was a Super 8 vacation! After quickly freshening up, we headed to the Strip at about 8 pm. Parked our car at Bellagio, and showed Paavani the fountain. She enjoyed thoroughly. There were also a bunch of cartoon characters on the Strip and Paavani had a nice time talking to them all. Showed her the Eiffel Tower.  Then walked down to the New York New York to show her the Statue of Liberty. More pics. Then the tram to the iconic Vegas Pyramid. By then, she was way too exhausted and she slept. Carried her all the way back to Bellagio and headed back to the hotel to sleep. All the casinos which we wanted to show Paavani at night with lights, we were able to show and hence it was rather fulfilling.

Day 4: Was really exhausted and hence got up really late, at almost 9 am. After breakfast and getting ready, we finally left at 11 am. Considering we had a flight at 7:30 pm, that wasn’t such a good idea. We should have left the hotel early. Anyways. Read somewhere about a shark show in Mandalay Bay. So, got to the car parking in Mandalay Bay, walked through a series of passageways and finally when we got there, there was a big queue. So, ditched the plan, walked all the way back and took the car to Aria. From there, walked through Aria, to the Strip, through Paris resort, Strip again, Caesar’s, and then walked to Bellagio’s, took the mono rail back to Aria, since it was already 3 pm. Then drove to Circus Circus. There was some delay due to traffic & parking restrictions. Stopped over at McD’s for a quick bite of lunch & ice cream. Saw one amazing acrobatic aerobic show in Circus Circus, and headed back to car, ready to be off to airport.

There were a few more casinos we wanted to see & show to Tontu – like Wynn, Venetian, etc. but due to lack of time, we had to forego. So with a heavy heart, we left. Lost our way to rental car return, got back on track, returned car, took shuttle to airport, checked-in, security, and finally we got to the gate. After an uneventful journey in JetBlue – which we flew after almost 7 years! – we landed safely in SFO, took the shuttle to car parking, drove back home and reached at almost midnight. Thus ended the Antelope Canyon & Vegas trip…

Epilogue: The main objective of the trip was the Antelope Canyon, and we were extremely lucky to have got a clear and sunny day for most of both the canyons. There were certain other aspects of the trip which kinda pulled the mood down at times. Such as losing my glasses. And most importantly - not having seen any of the place in its entirety. There were small places in Page which we couldn’t see like Marble Canyon, Vermillion Cliffs, etc. There was Zion & Angel’s Landing which got us thinking and the thinking fell flat. There was Valley of Fire’s landscape which was so beautiful which we could not see enough because we hardly had time. And although we were short by a day in Vegas(!) - considering how much there is to see in each resort – we felt we should have done a good job planning the last day’s activities instead of being lackadaisical & leaving the hotel so late in the morning, which left us just with 5 hours. I guess the fact that we have been to Vegas many times before took us off guard...This is my fourth time already.

But the trip as a whole was safe and enriching. And I guess that’s just as good as anything anyone can ever ask for, right?. So, then this was the first big vacation for 2016. What’s next?!