Deogarh & Kolkata

Time: Aug 23rd, 2025 to Aug 27th 2025

Place: Deogarh (Baidyanath Dham Jyotirlingam) and Kolkata

Company: Wife & Daughter

Highlights: It was after we visited Kashi/Varanasi for the first time that we started tracking the 12 Jyotirlngas, and much to our chagrin, we realized that Baidyanath was just an overnight train journey from Kashi, and we had missed visiting it even though we went en route from Kashi to Kolkata. However, even when we visited Kashi the second time, still we could not add it in our itinerary because we were moving the other way towards Badri. When we visited Prayagraj earlier this year, I thought if only we could somehow get this city added in our itinerary but we were hard pressed for time. Finally we thought we could visit it when we went to visit the new Ayodhya Ram Temple. But, as it happened, when Ganesh Chaturthi came middle of the week in Aug, took a day off and clubbed it into a long, long weekend and (because of the fear of air flying due to the recent crash at Ahmedabad) booked a train ticket to and fro only to Deogarh (Jharkhand). Our Ayodhya (second time) will have to be for another time. The direct train to Deogarh was a surprise. That too on the day of our liking. However, the return was not on the day of our liking, so we had to add Kolkata (2nd time) in the itinerary. There were still few places we had not seen when we went there first time, so it was ok. Booked the tickets for two long train journeys and we were ready for our next trip:

Day 1 - Aug 23: Usually I book the tickets with my wife's knowledge but this time kept it as a secret. Reason being, I had booked on First AC, which is something none of us had ever traveled before. Few decades back, I remember traveling in First class (which is basically same as Non AC sleeper) except that we have doors for every set of 6 berths but we do not have it any more now in Railways. But First AC is something we were always looking forward to and it was not something that we wanted to do for either a short trip nor just an overnight journey. So the itinerary had to be just right, and with Deogarh being about 40 hours away, it seemed just right, and the timing was correct, tickets were available too and I booked it. Costed a fortune of course, more than flight rate (direct BLR-Deogarh!), of course, but then it is the experience that matters, right? Initially had planned to unveil the surprise at the train but then informed them at the house itself so that they could be excited for the prospect for a longer duration!

Left the house at about 11 and reached SMVT (the new BLR station with AC!) around 1 pm and took some pics of the First AC train that we were about to board. These coaches either come as 2-berth Coupe or 4-berth Cabin. So we had to share one person in our cabin. He was an elderly person who kept to himself thankfully and spoke less. We preferred that than someone who constantly wanted to converse! Just introduced ourselves and he did that too and told a little about his family and that was about that. The train right on time at 1:50 pm and was due to reach Deogarh at 5 pm on Day 3! 

Had a nice relaxed silent time inside the cabin. Watched the countryside go by.

Day 2 - Aug 24: Whole day in train. Never got bored a bit. Read book, conversed, watched downloaded videos, got down at stations, looked at the rich cultivated land, ate few things which came by, etc.. For the first time saw a bathroom on train where one can actually take bath! Never seen that before. But the shower didn't seem that appealing though. One incident worthy of note is that at Vishakapatnam, I got down to get bananas. The train was supposed to halt for full 15 minutes. We lazed around walking on the platform hither and thither, checking which bananas to take. The vendors too kept staying at one place and then shifting to another coach. This got me confused. So when I finally chose the perfect vendor, it was almost time and I could hear the whistle. Since I was near the bogie, I saw the signal and it was still showing red. I did the transaction and right then the train started moving in the opposite direction! Appears that engine gets swapped here and train goes in the other direction! With bananas in one hand, I started running alongside the train. I could have boarded the nearest coach but I thought it is better to get as close to my coach as possible. Also since we were on First AC, it is possible that the vestibule is locked for the neighbouring coaches. Finally got onto some coach but there were people in the platform and on the train who were urging me to get on the train - quite miffed! 

Then came to my cabin only to notice Paavani was inside and wife was not there! Both of us had got down, so I had imagined she'd have come back. Quickly went to the door to see on the platform if she was still anywhere there (which doesn't make sense)  but she was nowhere to be seen. I then thought she also would have climbed onto some other coach and we had to wait. Again went to cabin, and she still hadn't come back. I thought better to go in search of her since she wouldn't know which way to get back to our cabin. Sure enough, she was at the pantry asking them how to get to First AC! She scolded me why I hadn't climbed at the first available coach when train started. As we got back and entered the cabin, some other passenger also came to me and rebuked in Hindi - how can an educated person like me run beside the train and try to get to the coach instead of climbing the first available coach. Appears that he had seen a woman try to do that somewhere before and had fell and what not! So advise to me was never to do that again! That highlight became the talk of cabin for a long time! We then packed up and got ready to get down the next morning at 4 am.

Day 3 - Aug 25: Almost on time, the train reached Deogarh. Walked to exit, grabbed an auto which took us to the temple. It was still dark but there was a huge crowd at the temple. Appears they were all waiting from 3 am, and most of them were farmers. One pundit ji said its better we go via VIP ticket which was all standardized by Govt rates. We had heard the same thing from our cabin-mate passenger in the train. Also looking at the queue, we realized we could not go through that since we had another train to catch at 1:30ish to Kolkata. The punditji seemed genuine enough. So we booked the VIP tickets. The darshan started at 6 am and it was a long queue (even VIP) but it was fast moving thankfully. 

The whole temple premises is wet with water. The premises consists of multitude of temples and upon each idol, they pour water. So, it is all wet everywhere. One has to walk carefully. Once we neared the sanctum sanctorum, our punditji hooked us to another pundit who was responsible for that part of the temple. The system of pundits is amazing. This pundit saved us from the general crowd and the temple police staff. The crowd inside the small sanctum sanctorum was unimaginable. Everyone was gushing everywhere. The body parts were getting twisted and turned whereever there was space! On top of this, the temple police staff was pushing ferociously and hitting sometimes with a wooden stick on the head! It was crazy! Thankfully our pundit ensured we were not jostled too much by the crowd nor did the staff hit the three of us! We finally got a few seconds to breathe inside and we could have darshan of the idol and even touch it and pour water on it. Just like that, we were out of the temple too! And that was my completion of all 12 Jyotirlingas! 

The first pundit met us at the exit and took us around the temple premises next to Shakti Peeth (Sati's heart). We meditated for some time. At this place, a lot is done for marital bliss and the pundit was trying his hardest to get us to do the ritual but we declined. For us, it is mostly the darshan that matters. We ourselves went to several of the temples within the premises, meditated amidst the chaos, and finally once we felt we were done the pundit called us and we got back to his 'sweet shop' where we had kept our bags. A bit of haggling on the 'additional price' for his services. And then we moved on to the railway station at about 10:40 am. 

Realized, there was no need to wait for our train and we could catch an earlier train to Kolkata. In fact, I had booked 2 trains - one in the afternoon which reached late night and another at night which would reach the next day (had booked this just in case darshan took a longer time). Now that we were ahead of time, I cancelled both trains and booked Vande Bharat - which was also our first time! The other option was unreserved train where we were not sure if we got seat or not. So VB sounded pleasing, especially with lunch option as we had had nothing to eat properly so far.

Our experience of Vande Bharat was nice. Thankfully a fellow passenger agreed for us to all three sit together. It was of course, like any other foreign train experience. Fast, silent and good service added that Indian touch to it! Within a few hours at about 4ish, we reached Kolkata.

Had booked comparatively nice, clean hotel near the station but the taxi drivers and auto drivers were cursing why I had booked that hotel since it was on a road which was unpassable! Finally one auto guy agreed and we reached our hotel. Indeed, the area was too crowded but the hotel was clean enough. 

We quickly freshened up, booked Uber to Ramakrishna Ashram / Belur Matha. Crowded roads but once we reached the ashram, it was so peaceful. Walking barefoot, we went to Belur Matha, it was architecturally beautiful. Then we went to the places attributed to Vivekanand and Ramakrishna samadhi (memorial). The rooms they were in is still in tact and kept clean. Lots of greenery. Mighty Hooghly river adds serenity.

Then we took the cruise to cross the river to go to Dakshineshwar temple. It was wonderful, just watching the city go by. Took us quite some time to get to the other side. En-route to temple, there was one more Kali temple and arathi was going on and we stood there for some time. Arathi went on and on and on! Once done, we had to walk quite a bit to get to Dakshineshwar Kali temple. It was just about to close, so we had to hurry. The final evening Arathi was taking place and we had nice darshan. The temple premises was huge, and we quickly covered as many temple/idols as we could. Thankfully a pure veg diner was right opposite and although they were closing, they invited us and we had sumptuous dinner. 

We then saw that our final place of visit Kalighat Kali temple was still open, and perhaps we could finish that too, so that we could start our next day relaxed. So boarded the metro train and went all the way to Kalighat. Even after alighting, we had to walk quite a distance to get to Kalighat Kali temple. Just when we reached, we were told it was closed for the day! Google had timings wrong! We were disheartened. We tried entering through different doors but just couldn't. Anyways, booked an uber back to the hotel. Reached and retired for the night. It had been a long, long day indeed!

Day 4 - Aug 26: Got up early, booked Uber to the Kalighat Kali temple and reached around 7ish. After the previous night, I was expecting a huge crowd but thankfully there was hardly anyone! In fact, darshan got done in few minutes! We were out by 7:30 am itself, and we had ton of time now until our departure train to BLR at noon. Did all the kriyas at the temple premises itself, and just sat there soaking in the Shakti Peeth (right toe of Sati) for eternity. Finally, at about 9ish we searched for a Pure Veg restaurant nearby and found Dosa Coffee. While we were waiting for the cab, we also saw Missionaries of Charity (Mother Teresa's). What an iconic place indeed!

By the way, Dosa Coffee was a truly a gem of a restaurant for a South Indian in Kolkata! Every dish made to perfection. We ordered a lot of things, some to eat and some for parcel for the train. Spent close to an hour eating, and changed our attire for the travel too! 

We still had time, so we thought we might as well walk to the nearby Rabindra Sarobar lake. Once we reached the lake, we sat on a bench and relaxed! Very soothing place, the water was lapping at the edges, the swans and ducks were a treat to watch. Some swans came to the walking path and was walking too! Took some pics with them. Finally felt that we spent more time that we ought to, and it was getting late to our train! The Uber guy took more time too - and it became quite tense since it showed we'd reach station just few minutes before the departure! 

Thankfully after some roadblocks, the driver was able to make progress and we reached station right on time. Added to that, was the train was late too! It hadn't even arrived at the station which was surprising since long distance trains would arrive at platform at least 2-3 hours before departure. Anyways we got onto our train and ready for another long ride to BLR (31 hours). There was one more train which was departing at 10.30 am for 29 hours but had prudently chosen this train at 12:30 pm so that we had enough time in the morning. Thankfully got side berths in the train, so the three of us could cuddle up and spend most of our time together. There was a toddler near our seats and we had fun playing with her. Rest of the day was uneventful.

Day 5 - Aug 27: Last day of our trip. Again, watched the beautiful landscape go by. Our country is so rich with vegetation. Crossed so many rivers, it felt nice to see them brimming full (later heard news that it was flooding in most of the states we traversed through!). Most of the times I had seen it was empty. Again, never got bored in the train. Finally we reached BLR and home safely at night, and that was the end of the trip.

Overview: Well, I finished all Jyotirlingas which is a great accomplishment indeed! Experienced First AC and Vande Bharat for the first time, which felt good. Second time at Kolkata and it is a wonder why missed to visit such beautiful places first time when we were here (had ample time on the last day too in fact, and we were waiting in the Howrah station for several hours). A trip that could have completed in 1-2 days (just Deogarh) went on to become a 5 day adventure but no regrets!