Kailash & Manasarovar Darshan

Preface (2004-2022)

Well, this trip definitely tops the chart in terms of most factors. A visit to Kailash was always in my mind since 2004 when I first visited the Char Dham (Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, Badrinath) Yatra via Vikram Travels. Their brochure boasted Kailash pilgrimage for INR 75,000 per person which was the costliest in their catalog. Fast forward to 2017, when we visited Isha Yoga Center, Coimbatore for the Mahashivratri festivities. There was a kiosk setup by Isha Sacred Walks (ISW) and they had a brochure for Kailash. But the catch was that participant should be minimum of 18 years. With our daughter being 6 then, we thought we had to wait one whole solar cycle if we were to go together. And then we got busy with our lives...

Chapter 1: Signing up (Feb 2022)

Late in 2021, wifey thought of checking for Kailash sojourn just in case if age limit had reduced from 18 to 10! The sojourn had not opened as yet for registration but it was open for enquiries. Meanwhile we had ensured our daughter had undergone a children's yoga program as well. After much back and forth discussion between Isha Sacred Walks and us about the child's capabilities (previous histories about high altitude expeditions such as in Europe and US), ISW finally gave the go-ahead to register, and said she had to undergo all medical screening tests like an adult to qualify. We were so happy that the first hurdle had crossed! If the age had been a strict restriction, then we could never have proceeded even one step.

Chapter 2: Medicals (Mar 2022)

March 2022, we visited a nearby Heart healthcare clinic with the medical screening battery of tests that we had to undergo which was mandatory for ISW to approve. We thought it will be done in 1-2 hours. We went at 9 am (without even eating the breakfast) and by 1 pm, we could do only 70% of the tests! We had to go back after lunch for more strenuous tests like TMT, PFT, etc. My first sacrifice for the Kailash trip was my chest hair (had to get it removed for TMT!) - something that I had never done, and felt very odd indeed! Anyways, by the time all tests were done, it was almost 7 pm. It was a full day of tests for all three of us, and the entire day was spent by the clinic staff only for us three! But the best part of it all was that all three of us had cleared all the tests albeit by a small margin. Our daughter, whom we thought could have it hard, in fact aced it. Especially on TMT and PFT. PFT is oh-so-tough and I barely cleared it whereas wifey found it very difficult to pass! TMT I was breathless but wifey was just fine. Despite all this, we still had to do Chest X-Ray which was not offered in that clinic. So we went to another nearby hospital to get that done. There were some minor things for wifey that the doc pointed out but nothing to be overly worried for the sojourn. Finally, at about 9 pm, we were done with all the medical tests and reports were uploaded to the ISW website along with the indemnity form and the form to accept the risks associated with the sojourn. Boy, did we know what risks we would encounter! 

Chapter 3: The Waiting Game (Apr 2022 till Aug 2022)

ISW had specifically told us not to book flight tickets until they reviewed all the documents and gave the sign-off. It was late in May that ISW finally confirmed that all documents submitted were in order, the sojourn too was as per schedule and that we could proceed with ticket booking. The itinerary was starting from Kathmandu and ending in Kathmandu. So we had to make own arrangements from BLR to KTM. Itinerary date was Aug 27th to Sept 7th. There was no direct flight from BLR to KTM on those dates (or the day before). However, there was a direct flight Nepal Airlines from BLR to KTM on 25th Aug and we booked it. It was cheaper compared to the flight via Delhi on 26th. Even with the hotel accommodation on 25th and 26th, it was working out and hence we went with it.

Nearer to the sojourn, we were given a huge checklist of items that we had to take with us. This included medicines, thermals, shoes, socks, warmers, etc. We went to Decathlon a number of times to get all the stuff that we wanted. That store is a blessing! Pretty much everything we wanted was available - trekking water-proof shoes, water-resistant pants, quick dry towel, water-resistant gloves, jackets, etc. All kinds of mountain trekking stuffs! As we neared the date of travel, I got all the documentation completed - like filling up the entry-to-Nepal docs, getting Covid test for Paavani (since she was not yet eligible for vaccination), etc. Thankfully, there were no hurdles anywhere.

Chapter 4: Arrived at Kathmandu (Aug 25th 2022)

Just couple of days prior to departure, an Isha volunteer asked us if it was possible to take a very heavy bag along with us to Kathmandu, and that it contained Isha stuff meant for the sojourn. We agreed, since it was Ashram's, and also we had baggage allowance pending despite our luggage. And anyways, along with us, we would have the volunteer accompanying too. The bag got delivered to us on 23rd itself and it was more of a gunny bag and very heavy indeed. 

On the day of departure, we booked a cab to the airport and he had his own reservations about the gunny bag stating that it seemed like a commercial cargo and not personal, and he might have to pay fine if he gets caught. Somehow we convinced him and we were off to the airport. The flight was in the evening we left at about 1 pm. Paavani went half-day to school, since she would anyways have to bunk many classes. We reached airport by about 4 pm and were joined by the Isha volunteer. Even at the airport, we were questioned about the contents of the bag and asked to get it scanned. Got that done and finally check-in completed. Once we reached the gate, we got info that flight was delayed by 3 hours.

Just when we were hungry and wondering what to do, Nepal Airlines arranged for packed dinner at the airport itself at a restaurant. The volunteer mentioned 'Sadhguru's grace'! Indeed! We had a nice discussion with her on her life at the Ashram as a full-time volunteer. Otherwise, it would not have been possible to have such a conversation, especially one who is a Isha trainer.

Anyways, finally got into the flight and it was a smooth journey. It was almost 3 years since we had flown in an airplane! By the time we reached Kathmandu, it was close to midnight local time. Once again, we ran into local authorities causing issues with the cargo-like bag being very suspicious. The volunteer tried to call the Ashram to understand contents, tax bill, etc. but it was hard to get anyone at that hour. They cut open the cargo and found a bunch of Save Soil T-shirts. Thankfully, a security guard at the airport connected dots about Sadhguru, Save Soil movement, and convinced the local authorities that it was indeed ashram specific and we could be let go. Again, 'Sadhguru's grace'!

We got out of the airport after converting currency (no real need actually). The volunteer went to Radisson (along with the cargo) since her trip was starting the next day and we took a cab to our stay-place. Unfortunately our hotel was not a very famous one and cab driver had a hard time finding the place. The phone was not ringing either and that was causing more trouble. Cab driver was not sure how he could drop us off in the middle of a road at 2 am! Anyways, we convinced him to drop us off at the road and we'd try to find the hotel. Thankfully, we could see the board of the hotel and it was a steep gully down. Had a hard time getting the owner to wake up. It was more of a house than a hotel. Thankfully, someone got up and we got a room. It was nice enough but the only grouse was that we had to carry our luggages up two stairs of flights! Anyways, we hit the bed at about 3 am and slept for the night.

Chapter 5: Kathmandu (Aug 26th-27th 2022)

Today was a day of relaxing. We didn't plan to see much since the program itinerary itself had 1-2 days of Kathmandu day trip. Also we knew the sojourn'd be hectic, so we intended to take it easy. Still, we had planned to visit few places, but owing to the delay in the flight and our late night arrival, we just could not get up early. We got up by noon and that too with great difficulty! Had something for breakfast and just soaked in the beauty of the scenery of Kathmandu from our room itself. Everywhere we saw, it was mountains! The view from our room was splendid! Spent lot of time just lazing and relaxing. I even worked for some time and it was like a staycation! 

Finally, at about 2 pm, we ventured out to Swayambhunath Stupa which was within a walking distance to our place. We had to climb a huge number of steps. Up top, there was no deity that we could enter but just a dome-like stupa which we circumambulated. And all around, we had beautiful views of the city. We took tender coconut but was shocked that it costed close to Rs 250! In India, it is Rs 40! Apparently, they get it imported from India and hence that rate. That entire hillock is filled with monkeys and it was a sight to see someone feeding them all. 

There are a number of items marked on the map to see but nothing seemed really significant indeed. So we just roamed from one point to the other, and got down the hill from the other side. We decided to go to an Indian restaurant but decided on a neighbouring pizza shop, which had nice ambience. Pizza done, we walked around the base of Swayambhunath temple and had a nice coffee at a nearby cafe. This cafe really was different because the entire area was decorated with tyres! Finally, at dusk, we got back to our room and retired for the night. There was a plaza (one of the darbars) nearby too which we thought we could visit but dropped the idea as we didn't want to rush ourselves. And anyways, it was part of the sojourn, so ISW would take us.

The next day, we packed and departed at noonish. Took a cab to Radisson where we had to report for the ISW sojourn. A minor accident for the cab on the way but thankfully we were right on time. After that stay, the Radisson seemed so much pleasant! Right at the entrance, we were given a duffel bag, a backpack, our badge and given instructions on all that we had to do. There was not a minute to waste in fact! After checking in into our rooms (luxurious), we went to have our lunch. 

The buffet had lot of choices and we had our fill. Back to our room, we started packing. We were supposed to leave most of our luggage at Radisson and take only necessary, It was strictly 7 kgs in the duffel bag and 3 kgs in the backpack. Instructions were clear on what had to go in the backpack and what had to go in the duffel bag. So we started sifting, sorting and shifting and keeping away what was not needed. It was a long process indeed and we had to finish by 9:30 pm.

We also had to attend a Satsang and orientation program in the evening within the hotel premises. It was the first of the sessions for our team and we were told who would be our group leader, which would be our sub-groups, who would be volunteer-leaders for sub-groups, some generic guidelines, itinerary in general, risks that we should be aware of, etc. We also saw a video from Sadhguru about Kailash and significance of the sojourn. At the end of the session, we had a Abhaya Sutra tied to our wrists which would act as 'Insurance' for our life and safety by Sadhguru himself. The entire process was done in silence.

Session done, we had to get our medicals tested for vitals which included BP, Pulse, SPO2, etc. and inform the doctor about current medical conditions, tablets, etc. That done (took a long time because of 70+ participants and just one doc), we had to hurry to dinner. It was at an annex building and we had to go through rain. Meanwhile, we had the duffel bags ready for hand-over and hence got it down to lobby. These would be transported to the bus the next day which would take us to the airport. Dinner done, we got back to our rooms and quickly set right our luggages which we had to keep in the hotel itself. By the time we finished, it was close to 11 pm and we had a 3 am wake up call! 

(pic courtesy: Bhaskar, part of our group)

We were told, in short, that trip itinerary would be Kathmandu to Nepalgunj to Simikot to Hepka to Dakchi to Lapcha where we would have the Kailash darshan. Assuming a day in S, H and D for acclimatisation, we were hoping for Kailash darshan on Sept 2nd or 3rd.

The adventure begins!! 

Chapter 6: Kathmandu to Nepalgunj to Simikot (Aug 28th 2022)

We woke up at 2:30 am itself. While the 3 am was for twin-sharing rooms, we were three people sharing the room. So had to plan for three people using the bathroom and getting ready. Once ready, we checked out of the room, kept the luggage at the lobby (which we wouldn't be taking with us) and rushed to the area where rest of our group had gathered. We did Guru Pooja at 4:15 am. Soon after, we took our packed breakfast and boarded two buses. The buses took us to the airport side entrance. It was drizzling slightly but thankfully not raining because we had to assemble, do a headcount check, do some last minute luggage shifting from cabin to checking, vice versa, etc. 

In addition to our batch of 70, there were other mountain climbing groups, akin to us with duffel bags & backpacks. The airport officials managed the crowd well indeed. We got in, waited for us to be called for the boarding pass, etc. Since we were all part of sub groups of 15 each, it was all easily managed. Security was next and then we had to wait for the flight. We munched on our apples which was part of the packed breakfast. At about 7 am, we took the flight to Nepalgunj. It was a flight with a capacity of 80 or so and hence all 70 of us could fit in. It looked like a flight that was made just for our batch! In fact, neither I nor the group was aware of the itinerary. In the brochure, it was actually mentioned that we would be going to Pokhara. But it seemed like there was a change, and we were in fact going to Nepalgunj. It was a short flight and we landed safely soon.

Now, we were at western side of Nepal. Kathmandu is almost on the eastern side. From an altitude perspective, in fact, we had gone down! We knew, we had to climb up to 16,500 ft for Kailash. But from Kathmandu 4500 ft, we were now at 500ft! Upon landing, we were stifled by the heat. It was extremely hot and humid. Since we were already wearing jackets to be ready for Simikot, Nepalgunj seemed suffocating. Now, Simikot was located almost on a mountaintop. So, it was subject to severe weather variations. Unless and until it was 100% clear on visibility, the flights would not operate. Also, it was a small airport with a smaller runway. So no radar and no ATC. The entire landing has to happen with the naked eye. So, no chances were taken whatsoever. As a result, since weather was not too good at the time we landed, we were asked to wait at Nepalgunj airport.

Thankfully, there were nice garden areas in the airport with enough shade and we all rested well. The early morning wake up made some of us nap, some of them did their sadhana, some of them just chitchatted and got to know the group members, etc. For us, the center of attention was our 11-year old daughter. Practically everyone wanted to talk to Paavani, wanted to talk to us to know how we could manage getting our daughter, wanted to know how we got the permission since there seemed to be an age restriction for this sojourn + prerequisite of having complete Inner Engineering, etc. So we ended up talking with most of them. Wifey wanted to do mouna (silence) until Kailash but with the overflowing questions from all group members, it was kind of hard. So she postponed the mouna for until a few days later.

We then finished our breakfasts. Still there was no sign of travel. So we started playing group games to keep ourselves occupied. At about noon, we heard that weather had cleared and flights were now flying to Simikot. However, there were only 3 chartered flights, and each took about only 15 people. So first three batches had to go and then the flights had to return back to pick up the remaining two batches. My family was part of the second batch, so we were slotted to go. We finished our security and got to the gate. More wait here, but it was air-cooled, so much better! More getting to know of people in the batch. Lots of them were from BLR and hence Kannada speaking. It was good. Finally we got into the flight. 

It was a turbo prop Dornier kind of flight where the seats seemed to be lower then the engine itself! Inside it was very tiny indeed. People had to duck and walk else would bump their head. Hardly any legroom and no headrest either. In fact, when we got in, there didn't seem to be any oxygen either and we were all sweating profusely. The actual ascent was kind of scary because this seemed like an amusement ride. The bigger airplanes kind of offsets the fear by being so smooth and unassuming whereas these small metal tubes acting like airplanes are far more scarier! Anyways, after about 10-15 minutes, the oxygen became much better. But the noise and turbulence was too much. 

About 30-40 minutes into the ride, wifey and daughter got air-sickness. Hardly could expect anything else with all that turbulence. And we were already in the lap of the Himalayas. There were so many peaks, valleys, waterfalls, rivers, streams, etc. Some of the peaks were snow-capped and some were green. The flight went on and on, north now. All of a sudden, there didn't seem to be any runway at all and he was landing! It was like landing on a mountain. Quite a skill indeed for the pilots to be landing at such altitude. And just like that, we were at Simikot, altitude of 9500 ft. As soon as we got out of the flight, we could feel the chill and all those jackets came in handy now. Here we had to give away our passports for permits required by Nepal for further travel. The sudden altitude climb also made me light-headed and I needed some time to get acclimatised, so I just sat still at the airport. In fact, I seemed to be yawning a lot and wanting to sleep. 

Anyways, the third flight came and now the first 3 sub-groups were at Simikot. We were asked to walk up (slowly) towards what would be our hotel for the night. It was a 15 minute trek on a road filled fully with pebbles. All local Nepalites were staring at us like as if we were aliens, wearing thick jackets, trekking stick, shoes, etc. The name of the hotel was Bijay. We were allocated our rooms and it was now gender-shared since accommodation was sparse in this tiny village. So, 3 folks were sharing one room. Thankfully my wife/daughter and I were right opposite. After check-in, we had our lunch. Appetite was not much but we were asked to eat nevertheless since we were at high altitude. Carbs were mandatory. I was still feeling queasy and food did not seem too tasty. 

From here on, the intensity of the pilgrimage deepened. There was a big speaker kept right in the lobby which continuously had Sadhguru chanting 'Shambho, Shambho'. Involuntarily it made us silent and chant too, instead of getting into gossips with other pilgrims. Also, hot water was continuously available here in jumbo flasks (only to drink, not bathe!) which we could fill into our own flasks. I made it as a habit to have either hot or warm water from hereon. Cold water was tough to drink anyways. 

We got to know that weather conditions had worsened due to which the last two sub groups could not make it to Simikot that day, so only first three sub groups had traveled to Simikot and remaining two were at Nepalgunj. There were ISW station volunteers at each leg of the journey exactly to take care of these kind of things, divided batches, etc. We later got to know that they were placed in a superb 5-star hotel (better than Kathmandu's Radisson) at Nepalgunj and they visited a nearby Shaktipeeth temple as well. 

On our side, after lunch, we took some rest and then in the evening, we went trekking to a nearby Shiva temple. It was slightly drizzling so we went with our ponchos. It was quite a long walk - almost 30-45 minutes and the trek was mainly for us to get acclimatised to the altitude. The trek was very beautiful, we went through the village of Simikot and saw the villagers do their daily chores. The best part was that we saw apple trees! The clouds drifted through us and the scenery was fantastic. The runway view from our hotel added to the beauty. In fact, the room that I got had the runway view and I got tired of taking pictures! No wonder the flights could hardly make it - the runway was filled with clouds 9 times out of 10!

We finished our trek to the Shiva temple, and got back to the hotel. It was raining but not too hard. We had some tea, or hot chocolate as per our preference, some snacks and just whiled away the time until dinner. With the night, the chill was even more pronounced. We also had a small satsang where we were told that we need to get into silence as much as possible from now on and not let ourselves into idle chatter. After satsang, the evening medical check-up was done and some of the group members needed serious help. The altitude was not helping. Dinner done, we retired for the night. Thankfully the bedsheets were thick and cozy. I slept with my jeans and maybe thermals too, still did not feel hot.

Chapter 7: Simikot (Aug 29th 2022)

Since the other batch was yet to join us, this day was easy for us. The morning guru pooja was scheduled at 8 am. There was no easy hot water available as well. So we had to make do with sponge water bath or even wet wipes. In fact, this was how it was for the next several days until we returned back to Kathmandu Radisson! Despite the late satsang, I was awake by 6 am. The runway visibility was disappointing. It was filled full with clouds. That meant our rest of the group would not join us soon. Means, we could not proceed from Simikot to Hepka, our next destination. 

The whole day was just spent on waiting. I would see the runway, see that it was filled with mist and hence no airplane sound. Morning breakfast, noon lunch, evening tea and night dinner. Just go to the room, lie down, look at the beautiful scenery, go back to lobby for little chitchat, talk with wife and daughter and repeat the process. We went to terrace for different view. We also went walking behind the hotel amidst greenery for a few minutes but there was nothing much other than villagers doing their chores. 

In the evening, we went on another guided trek on a different route this time. Once again, it was wonderful. Right in the middle of big grasslands with towering mountains all around us. At the end of the walk, we seemed to reach a cliff-end with a huge drop right in front of us. And because of that, the clouds could be seen forming right in front of us and enveloping us every now and then. We took a bunch of photos and then headed back to the hotel. Like all days, we had our medicals done once in the morning and once in the evening. Docs kept course-correcting those whose vitals were going crazy. We all were taking the Diamox tablet but the tablet itself had so many side-effects.

At the hotel (and even during the trek), we were joined by different batches of ISW, and it was fascinating how ISW was managing it all. Like for instance, one group had come back from Hepka since there was no space there as another group had just returned from Kailash back to Hepka. So to make way for them, they had come back from Hepka to Simikot, and they would be going directly from Simikot to Dakchi (since the heli taking people from Hepka to Dakchi was anyways leaving from Simikot). Anyways, due to the weather condition, different batches were stuck at different locations. 

Some of them had already finished the darshan but were stuck and unable to get back as helicopters were not flying. And some of them like us were stuck trying to get to Kailash itself with stranded subgroups. Some of them were returning back even though they had not yet had the darshan just to make room for other groups. There were so many moving parts and the station volunteers were excellently managing it all, with a nice smile on their calm faces. And we just kept clicking away glorious pics of Simikot valley!

So, one whole day was spent doing nothing, and we were still half the group at Simikot and remaining in Nepalgunj. One could only imagine how they would be feeling. At least we were getting acclimatised to a higher altitude but for them, it was just plain delay. I realized it was a Monday. How hectic my life would have been on a Monday back home! So many emails, so many meetings, deliverables, things to attend to, etc. and here I was just simply sitting. Simply sitting and staring at nothingness! The internet was minimal or none. It seemed to come up only late night, so I was not checking. During the day, it just wasn't available. So, I could not even check my office emails or personal emails or even status of India cricket matches! Just looking here and there, at the runway or the mountains or the greenery, chanting 'Shambho' and an occasional discussion with some team mates. A very novel experience, indeed! 

Chapter 8: Hepka (Aug 30th 2022)

The weather cleared thankfully and we could hear the airplanes! It was such a joy to hear these machines. It was like freedom! Soon, the two final subgroups, arrived and joined us at Bijay hotel. It was quite a reunion indeed! We welcomed them all with gusto but they did not have much time for acclimatisation. Since the weather was good, we had to rush to our next destination before it got worse. Next destination was Hepka, and as per the itinerary, it was a tough trek of about 4-6 hours. But ISW had made it easy. We could either go in jeep the entire journey, or trek halfway and remaining in jeep but there was no option of trekking the entire journey. There was also an option of attempting the trek and if finding it too difficult, wait for the jeep and hop on. Apparently it was a tough first 1-2 hours with steep climb (altitude making it tougher still) and then became better. But trek was recommended for all since it would acclimatise for Hepka which was just above 10,000 ft. 

However, considering the weather conditions and time (it was already 2 pm), ISW station volunteers asked as many of us as possible to take the heli from Simikot to Hepka. The bay for Heli was Simikot, and helis were taking stranded people from Hepka to Dakchi (onwards to Kailash) and from Dakchi to Simikot (returning from Kailash), and hence it was going empty from Simikot to Hepka. As such, many of us (almost 50) were asked to take the chopper ride from Simikot to Hepka. It was just a 10 minute ride, what would have been a 6 hour tiring trek! For many of us (mine too), it was the first chopper ride and it was a great experience.

As soon as we landed at Hepka, we were greeted by ISW Hepka station volunteers. Here it was a totally different ballgame. No concrete structures, no walls, no hotels, no villages, etc. It was just a plain valley area with mountains towering all over us. In the plain land, there were a number of tents. The volunteers taught us how to use the toilets. Basically we had potty chairs with liners which we had to use, and tie it up after we were done and throw it in the trash bin, and replace the seats with liners for next customers. All the trash would then be transported back to city limit by sherpas for proper disposal. 

The entire area was set up by sherpas themselves. Each tent, each nail of each tent, the cyliners for food, the provisions, etc. were all many, many months worth of effort by sherpas just to make it possible for us pilgrims! Here the food was way too good - much better than Simikot. We had pastas, gulab jamuns, apples, hot chocolate drinks, etc. The variety every day was different and something to look forward to.

In addition to the night-halt tents (each of us were assigned a tent on twin-sharing basis, except for us three since we were one family and we had to adjust with 3 sleepings bags inside a twin-sharing tent), there were two big tents- one for satsang and one for meals. The temperature when we landed was not too bad and it was bearable although shoes, jackets, gloves, headgear, thermals, etc. were all a must at all times. Once more, like how it happened after reaching Simikot, here too, we started getting light-headed and sleepy thanks to lack of oxygen. But somehow we tried to keep ourselves awake.

About 7 or 8 pm, rest of our batch mates joined, those who trekked half the way and did not choose the helis. They complained how bad the jeep ride was and it was bumpy all through. But they seemed to have enjoyed the trek albeit being tough. But it was good for our entire batch to be at one location after a long time! There was satsang in the evening and general orientation on how to be at Hepka, such as what time lights would be turned on in the evening and turned off at night, usage of hot water, not skipping meals, etc. As the evening progressed & sunset occurred, the chill increased. While in Simikot, we had temperatures at 10 or 11 degrees, here it was going down to 3 or 4 degrees Centigrade. 

On the first evening, wifey fell really ill. Not sure if it was due to AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or she had a bad episode of digestion or it was due to side-effects of Diamox but nothing was staying inside. During the evening medical check up, the doc quickly suggested steroids and higher dose of Diamox in addition to tablets to stop the vomiting. And, she was not the only one. There were many in the group who got sick, and in fact, I later came to know it was a busy and tough night for the doc.

At night, around 1 am, Paavani fell ill, all of a sudden. Once again, it seemed due to AMS. She started puking. It was pitch dark outside and little bit of drizzle. And wild dogs were barking in the distance. We were asked to have torch lights just in case we were venturing out. She had 2-3 episodes of sickness and then I went in search for doc's tent to ask what to do. It was 3 am in the night and boy, was it dark!! What an adventure. Thankfully the doc woke up and gave me some suggestions. I got back to the tent and gave the recommended tablets to daughter. Thankfully, she slept peacefully thereafter and gladly wifey seemed better. It was a night of hardly much sleep but I was waiting for daylight...  

ISW had suggested a number of tablets and medicines to be with us at all times and it was good to have all medicines with me - Diamox (AMS), Rabekind (tummy), Meclizine (motion sickness), Loperamide (loosies), Domperamide (vomit), ORS, etc. These tablets became saviours for many days ahead!

Chapter 9: Simikot to Hepka (Aug 31st 2022)

Guru pooja was early at about 7-ish. Actually there was no reason for it to be so early since there was nothing planned for the day (except for a trek to a pond) but anyways we were up. Not sure how, but at home, I used to sleep late into mid-mornings but here in the lap of nature, I was waking up at 5:30 or 6 utmost. The sherpas had kept buckets of hot water for brushing our teeth and washing our faces and within few minutes that hot water used to turn cold. Also, since there was so many of us (not just our batch but there were other batches too - some who had come before us and some new ones who were joining us), the buckets used to become empty soon enough. Anyways, we did Guru Pooja & a guided Shambhavi together as a group (Paavani slept in the tent peacefully since she had had a bad night) and then went for breakfast. Usually we had bread with jam or peanut butter and apple along with something that kept changing (like poha or pasta, etc.).

Paavani did not seem too fit enough in the morning and seemed all queasy. Unwilling to even have breakfast but somehow had to force her to have little bit. She was taking lot of medication and with great difficulty having ORS too. The group was going out on a trek to a nearby pond but doc suggested for Paavani to skip since she was not feeling fit, and in fact very weak. Wifey said she will stay back too and I tried to get ready to leave. But I had to arrange for a number of things like tablets, ORS, etc. I also had to search for my poncho and for some reason, just couldn't find it. Going on a trek without poncho was a big no-no since we could not afford to get drenched in any sudden rain as it could lead to hypothermia. Stranded in a location like this, that was the last thing one'd want. Finally I found my poncho but unfortunately my group had already. I didn't dare to try to catch up with them since one was advised against running or walking fast at such high altitude. There was no visuals for me even, so I dropped the idea and headed back to the tent and just lie there, looking at the towering mountains everywhere. Daughter and wife seemed both to be better now, thankfully. 

The group returned back by about 2 pm and we had lunch. And then we had some games arranged by the group leader which was captivating. And then some general time-pass. Wifey was now in mouna (silence), staring at the mountains most of the day. Today being Ganesha Chaturthi, some artistic folks created Ganesha out of mud and we had a small pooja. It was a wonderful feeling.

Evening time, we had Satsang with Sadhguru videos and general chanting followed by medical check-up and dinner. Now, the medical screening was a nightmare since we all feared our oxygen content was going down, BP variations, etc. even though we felt fine. These vitals were vital because if they went whacky, it just meant we could not proceed further to Kailash! In fact, looking at Paavani, the doc was contemplating if she could proceed further or not but thankfully there was no more episodes of her vomiting sickness and her body seemed to be acclimatising well to the oxygen and altitude. Wifey was almost back to normal too but not fully. The second night was not so dramatic as the first one but still there were moments when we were waking up, and even had to go to the loo or take daughter to the loo in the dead of darkness under the starry night. But there were no major health concerns thankfully. Second night at Hepka done!

Chapter 10: Hepka (Sep 1st 2022)

We were hopeful of flying out of Hepka this day. We had already lost one extra day in Simikot and we could not afford to lose one more day else our final days of the itinerary were in danger of getting missed out (viz Pokhara). But alas, weather was not permitting for helis to fly. So we were stuck. However, as per plan, we were ready. Up early at about 6 am, Guru Pooja and Shambhavi done by 7, breakfast done by 9 am, bags packed and checked out of the tents by 10 am. And then the long wait for the helis. Thankfully, all three of us were perfectly fine now and acclimatised to the altitude and oxygen well enough.

Meanwhile the batch which left Kathmandu one day after us had already arrived at Hepka the previous day. They were right on schedule since they had not faced delays like our batch. They had even trekked from Simikot to Hepka. And this day they were going to the lake (like how our batch went yesterday). We (wifey and I) had half a thought to tag along with them since we had missed the lake as part of our batch's trek but we were not sure if the helis would suddenly appear. One could never say what'd happen at what time and we didn't want to miss out. Going forward towards Dakchi, even if there was small percentage of hope, was anytime better than the missed lake.

Having said that, the other batch went to the lake and got back by lunch time but our helis did not come. We finished lunch, saw some videos of Sadhguru, had Satsang chanting, played games, etc. and generally passed the time. At one time, I felt we should have pushed forth to Dakchi the previous day itself considering weather was good and we already had had over 24 hours of acclimatisation. The rule of staying put in Hepka for at least two nights should have been relaxed considering we were already delayed in our itinerary. However, it was not to be. Noon turned to evening and evening turned to night. The whole day was spent by the whole batch just in Hepka. Not much places to trek too. Another day of no internet, no cell connectivity, no bath, etc. As my daughter rightly mentioned, it was as good a place as anywhere to get totally lost - right in the middle of towering mountains!

But the highlight of the day was the Ganesha procession! The Ganesha which was created the previous night was ceremoniously carried across the tents full with dance and song by the entire group, and we had a nice group pic taken. Someone distributed sweets specially home-made for this Ganesha festival and preserved till this day! A great bonhomie prevailed all through. Then the Ganesha was given a farewell and immersed in bucket water, just like tradition. Post dinner, we all retired for the night, and this night was the most uneventful of the three nights at Hepka. Slept peacefully through!

Chapter 11: Hepka to Dakchi (Sep 2nd 2022)

So the day began with clouds and mist (like most other mornings in Hepka). That meant helis would not be flying. Which meant, we could not proceed further. But we kept the hopes high. We got up early and finished Guru Pooja and Shambhavi by 8 am and had our bags packed, tents cleared, etc. once more and ready for departure as soon as helis could fly. With clouds came rain but ISW volunteers said rain is not an issue for helis but clouds & mist was dangerous. We had our ponchos on, and waited and waited to hear the sweet sound of metallic clack-clack of helicopter. That was the sound of freedom for us from Hepka. Breakfast was done by 9ish and from then on, it was pure waiting. We just lazed on the lush greenery, sometimes sitting, sometimes lying down and each to his own, gazing at the mountains or chit-chatting or chanting or looking at the deep gorge, valley, etc. Suddenly we got info that helis would come any time and hence we had had to have our lunch soon. Hurriedly we finished lunch but there was no real need. Even after an hour of finishing the lunch, the helis still had not come. But finally, at about 1:30 pm, we could hear the sound of helicopters and we were off to Dakchi! Bye-bye to Hepka. 

While the ride from Simikot to Hepka was short 5-10 min, the chopper ride from Hepka to Dakchi was longish. About 15-20 mins. Unlike airplane, the turbulence and swaying effect of heli is felt more and just when we were all getting queasy and nauseatic, we saw the tents welcoming us at Dakchi. The chopper ride took us through long gorges and valleys of the mighty Himalayas. The peaks of several mountains and cliffs could be seen at every distance. In some of the videos, we were told that the Pandavas trekked this route to get to Kailash and one cannot really imagine walking through these peaks! While Hepka was green and lush, as we came to Dakchi, the land was dry and hardly much greenery. In fact, we had climbed about a few thousand feet more and I guess we were at about 14,000 ft now and one could palpably feel the dryness in the air and land surrounding us all. This place was called the Limi valley and there were three main villages that comprised of Dakchi. Despite that, the place where the tents were erected, there was no presence of any villagers. Once again, it was right in the middle of nowhere and towering mountains enveloping us from all sides although we were on a plain land. Right beside us was Limi river flowing rapidly. But it was off limits for us, which meant we could not go even close to it. There was a specific boundary within which we had to stay at all times. Just like in Hepka. The boundary was indicated by red flags at the corners.

Here too, we had three sets of tents to house three different batches at any given point of time. I think this was improvised from Day one of the sojourn of first batch since we had heard about reports where people were running out of tents since batches were getting stuck at different places. So now we had ample tents. Here the satsang hall and dining halls were at opposite ends of the camp site unlike in Hepka where it was right opposite one another. Also unlike Hepka where we had just one dining tent, here we had two dining tents. And I guess it made sense because two batches could have dinner or lunch at same time which could not happen in Hepka. The chill was same as in Hepka, so same attire and warm beverages always encouraged. Once more, we had an orientation session. The only difference in the toilet was that we were not to use liners for pee and we had to use the ground itself inside the toilet tent (disinfected periodically, of course). That'd save ample amount of liners and waste. But other than that, rules remained same. Lights off at 9:30 pm, no sleeping during day time, and rest of the rules.

We were assigned our tents. Once again, we asked for three sleepings bags inside one tent and with much perplexity ("does it fit?") it was granted and we made ourselves comfortable. Here at Dakchi, due to dryness, it was not as misty or cloudy or rainy except at night times. So day times, it was warm indeed. Especially felt with thermals on. Anyways, at about 5 pm, we were taken on the first trek of the place. A small hillock to be climbed. However, that trek took over an hour to finish. It was a great view from top of the hillock. Especially of the Limi river. The dryness all around the area had small stick-like things called affectionately as rockets entering into the sock and piercing the skin. So this needed special handling! 

Once back, we came to know that not all of our batch mates could make it to Dakchi since helis stopped due to weather conditions. So once again, our group was divided into two - some of us were in Dakchi and some in Hepka. Needless to say this added to our concern. If all of us had made it today, then either we could have pushed forth to Kailash either on 3rd, or worst case on 4th after further acclimatisation on 3rd. But with our entire group not making it today, it meant our Kailash could get further pushed to 5th! And we had our return flight tickets booked from Kathmandu on 7th! Things looked very dicey now. Forget Pokhra, even our return flights back home seemed difficult to achieve.

Then we had one video satsang from Sadhguru and then post-dinner we retired to our tent and it was not an eventful night. I guess our bodies had now acclimatised and the altitude gain of about a 1000 ft really did not disturb the system. At least that's what I thought...

Chapter 12: Dakchi (Sep 3rd 2022)

So the most imperative thing for the day was for our rest of the batch to join us asap. Only if they joined us, we could attempt Kailash on the following day. As far as we knew, they were still stuck at Hepka and supposed to come to Dakchi today via heli. But we got to know that the weather continued to be bad at Hepka although good in Simikot and Dakchi. So picking them up from Hepka was still ruled out unless weather cleared up, which unfortunately didn't seem likely in the morning. 

For us at Dakchi, the morning was quite relaxed. We got up by 6, refreshed ourselves with the warm water in the bucket at the edge of the campsite and had usual Guru Pooja followed by Shambhavi. Our first trek was about 10 in the morning after breakfast & medical screening. While the previous trek was towards the left of the camp site, this trek was towards the right of the camp site. Once more, we had to climb a hillock, cross it and go on the other side. The view here was as breathtaking as before. 

Huge valley view and one more river/tributary. In fact, there seemed to be a mini Kailash-looking mountain with snow-capped peak. It was mesmerizing! We spent some time just gazing at the wonderful scenery. And continued to walk on and on. The climb was tiring and lack of oxygen didn't help either. We all seemed to be huffing and puffing. And suddenly we seemed to be having a huge descent to climb down. Once more great views all around, we were back on the Limi river-side with a hanging bridge on top of it adding to the view. We got back and it was lunch time. 

Post lunch, we just sat gazing at the Limi river - all of us lost in our own thoughts. Now the helis were flying but it seemed that our batch was not coming. The batch one-day-later-than-ours was in fact landing, and it was perplexing. Apparently the rest of our batch had proceeded from Hepka back to Simikot via trek just to avoid the misty Hepka helipad area, so that they could at least take the heli directly from Simikot to Dakchi. But just after they had left, the mist had cleared and helis started flying. 

Since the only team left in Hepka was the batch one-day-later-than-ours, they got lucky and started arriving at Dakchi. They even went on some treks and their batch consisted of non-Indian origin people mostly. The non-Indian factor seemed to go in their favour because the station doc surveyed their group and found them to be fit enough for Kailash trip the very next day itself (Sept 4th) whereas our batch was still stuck. This irked a lot of our team members and we had had a lengthy discussion with ISW station volunteers that it was not fair since a batch that started a day late were being awarded with Kailash darshan a day before than us. The station volunteers tried to explain and justify that their batch was fitter and better whereas our batch was not but IMO I guess it was because they had their whole batch with them in Dakchi whereas we did not. And for Kailash darshan, the group leader is a must because certain processes are conducted at Lapcha by him/her. Our group leader was stuck back in Simikot with rest of our group. Anyways, after much deliberation, the station doc was given final approving authority and their decision was that we needed one more day of acclimatisation. So that was that then. But the best part of the discussion with Station head was his fascinating story of how they found this route back in 2021 when Sadhguru wanted to create this sojourn considering China was not giving visa for Kailash in the original route:

He (Anand anna) started explaining how the matter which we were discussing was trivial compared to the travails of the previous year when Sadhguru asked his (Anand) team to do a reconnaissance of the entire route from Simikot to Kailash, and take help of a yogi whom he'd meet. Anand anna went on to explain how they found a single-dhoti-clad yogi near Hepka despite extreme weather conditions who was in silence but explained certain things about route in writing. And asked for potatoes and fruits only as meals, nothing else in return. The yogi helped in finalizing the camp site at Hepka. And then disappeared for many days again until they found him once more near Dakchi where he helped Anand's team from a landslide-prone area. He also helped in finalizing campsite at Dakchi. And again when a river had to be crossed from Dakchi to Lapcha, the yogi suggested which part of the river had least depth and could be navigated. His very presence seemed very divine in nature. And then he disappeared once and for all, after one final visit between Sadhguru and the yogi where they both just exchanged a nod, in full understanding despite no conversations ever. This whole story was fascinating but Anand anna explained all of this in total humbleness, and how things happened smoothly in Sadhguru's presence - and hence not to worry.

Later, we went on one more trek almost on the same lines as in the morning but this time it did not seem too tough. Pretty much the same views this time. We got back and we had satsang in the evening after snacks/beverage, had dinner and retired for the night. Some of our folks had joined us later in the day for the 2nd trek but still there were few more left to join us, and we were hoping they'd join us at least on 4th. 

Today was a special day - it was Sadhguru's birthday! So, the station volunteers, cooks had made special cake in the most innovative fashion despite not having the needed ingredients and materials (oven, etc.). It was wonderful to celebrate the birthday in our own way amidst some chants, some Shambho songs, etc. People were dancing and laughing all around - and I came to know it was the same at different places as well - Simikot, Hepka, etc. Paavani being the youngest in the lot was given the opportunity to cut the cake and it was an absolute honor!

Post dinner, it was surprisingly an eventful night. I was wrong about us having got acclimatised. Once more at about 1 am, daughter felt sick. Another episode of AMS obviously, thanks to the climb in the altitude. It took a day and a half for the body to feel the pressure! But I knew the pattern now, and which medication to be given. Thankfully, no wild dogs at night here, so I could venture out in the dark quite fearlessly - this was just to the loo, and not the doc. After 1-2 bouts of awakening, we slept through the night, and awaited daybreak. It is always the night when AMS sets in. Thankfully, wifey was fine. I guess that was because she was now on steroids.

Chapter 13: Dakchi (Sep 4th 2022)

At 5 am, we could hear the other batch head out to Kailash and we did feel low about it. We were hoping at least some of us could tag along but it didn't seem right. And anyways, for our family (wifey and daughter and me), Sept 5th seemed ideal after the eventful night. Paavani once again seemed too low on energy and wakefulness. She seemed too tired out. While rest of the team went for Guru Pooja, Shambhavi and then breakfast, she stayed put in the tent taking rest. Post breakfast, the team ventured out on another trek (again same route as the previous day) but the doc suggested during the morning medicals to take it easy and skip the trek for her. It was important for her to be fit and fine for Kailash. I stayed back with her while wifey proceeded. Got daughter some ORS and fed her breakfast as slowly as possible. Also took her walking around the camp site. Soon she seemed to get better. The tablets and ORS was working.

Finally rest of our batch started pouring in, one heli by one heli, directly from Simikot. That gave us the confidence that we'd go to Kailash on 5th no matter what. We could not afford another day's delay else we would not be able to take our return flights from Kathmandu. The folks who landed in Dakchi were the most hard hit since they hardly had any time for acclimatisation to the weather or the altitude. As soon as they landed, they had to have lunch and go on couple of treks. Our post lunch trek was on a different route, and it involved going on that swinging bridge on top of river Limi. It was quite an adventure. After the bridge, we had to climb quite a big hill compared to all the other hillocks that we had climbed. But this was beautiful because little streams of water seemed to be flowing all around us, so it was nice jumping on top of it, feeling it, etc. And pristine views all around. We got back to camp site and had little bit of free time in our tents whereas the folks who had just joined us had to watch the satsang videos.

Post that, we had to go on another trek route and this was almost on the same side as our very first trek (left of camp site but little behind). Now this was the steepest hill that we had to climb of all the treks so far. Once more, up we went huffing n puffing, and we were greeted by some of the best views of our own campsite! It was a long trek of almost 2 hours and by the time we got back, it was time for the last satsang at Dakchi. Sadhguru's videos were all of different nature in these satsangs unlike the ones which we get to see on Youtube. There are aspects of his life and Life in general that he speaks about which are total eye-openers. At the Satsang, we were told that our Kailash darshan was scheduled for Sept 5th which happened to be Teacher's day and which better teacher than Adi Yogi Himself! We were all upbeat and retired for the night after dinner. Even the group which had come that day to Dakchi were thrilled despite being exhausted to the core and not fully acclimatised either. By now, Paavani was better too and we were confident of a great day ahead!

Chapter 14: Dakchi to Lapcha (Kailash & Manasarovar Darshan) to Simikot (Sep 5th 2022)

The wake up was at 4 am, 4:30 Guru pooja, 5 am breakfast and departure at 6 am sharp. The departure was across the river, so we had to cross the hanging bridge. That itself was a 20-30 minute trek. We were all right on time and as we neared the trucks, all the ISW station volunteers were standing in a line with hands bowed to us, in Namaskar mode, wishing us the best of the journey to Kailash. In some ways, it was as if they were treating us like Gods ourselves and it was extremely humbling experience. I mean, here we were complaining, getting pampered with food and tents and what-not, and yet, when we were departing, all the volunteers were treating us like Gods. It was a eyes-brimming-with-tears experience. We did namaskar back to them and boarded the jeeps. There were 3 jeeps and 2 tractors. Since Paavani needed extra attention, we were in the same vehicle as the doc. And off we went on the final leg of the 'Up' Journey. Funny, how we were still on the 'Up' journey despite it being Sept 5th and we had a return flight back from Kathmandu on Sept 7th!

So, the first stop was at 7:30 am, and we had climbed a long way up already in the last 45 minutes. Almost a 1000 feet up and we could even see our tents way down. The chill was bearable since we were wearing 5-6 layers both on trunk plus leg areas. It was heartening to see how people from different batches, sherpas, ISW volunteers, etc. were donating unused warmers, extra jackets, head scarves, down jackets, etc. to Paavani purely out of love for her. In fact one of the pilgrims from a different batch interviewed Paavani since he was shell-shocked to see such a young aged participant in the trip, and he wanted to inspire his daughter to make the pilgrimage. Another ISW batch leader, looking at her, told us parents, "What kind of irresponsible, wonderful parents are you to get her to such a tough pilgrimage as Kailash?! Can you please adopt me?!" So, Paavani was all decked up, heated up from inside using the warmers on her feet and palms and tummy areas. So far so good.

We continued on. Some of us used the nature for nature's call, it was the first time in the entire trip! It was another long bumpy ride for about an hour. There was no road as such. It was filled with rocks and pebbles and we kept hitting one side or the other with the vehicle's metallic parts. But nothing could bring down our upbeat-ness! The scenery was breathtaking all the way anyways, so that kept us diverted and occupied. Our next stop was at about 8:30 am. Some of us were asked to stretch, do some basic exercises for faster acclimatisation, walk around, etc. I kept myself busy taking care of Paavani, giving her medications, ensuring she was covered fully, etc. After another 5-10 minute break, off we moved again.

Last part of the journey was just 25 minutes. So we reached our final destination, Lapcha, at about 9:30 am. It is also called the Kailash viewing point. It is at the very edge of Nepal and one can even see the Tibet (China) flag. Once we got down the jeep and the jeeps turned their engines off, it was absolutely silent. We were one with the nature. All of us silently tried to see where Mount Kailash was but we could not. We could see the Lake Manasarovar but not the Mountain. Then Anand anna pointed it to us. He practically comes here almost daily with each batch, so he knew exactly where. Apparently the mountain was filled with clouds, so we could not see it clearly. At least not yet. We could only see the base which was filled with snow. And then we all sat down, quite involuntarily. To each, his own. Including Paavani. Just sat there, staring at the place where Kailash was. 

It was quite something. Just as the clouds covering the peak started clearing, there was an outpouring of gratitude, of an overwhelming sensation of everything that we had undergone since the last several days, weeks and months - just for this one moment! It was a pregnant silence, filled with lots of things and yet nothing. Tears welled up for many. Difficult to describe indeed. And all of this would not have happened, we would not really have felt anything if a helicopter had taken us from Simikot and landed us directly here. We had had to undergo the difficulties, the long wait times, the daily satsangs, the chants, the suspense of 'Apna time kab ayega?', passing of the medical tests to finally savour this success moment!

(pic courtesy: Bhaskar)

Meanwhile the ISW volunteers were very busy setting up the area. They laid down a huge taurpaulin on the ground, made it still by keeping rocks at the edges, kept a stand for Sadhguru photo, the lamp, the speaker system, the microphone, etc. Slowly, without being told, we got up from where we were sitting on the floor and made way on top of the tarpaulin. Our group leader then performed a small process of imbibing Kailash into our very being, of treating the mountain as our own child with unconditional love. Some people got emotional. And then we chanted 'Shambho, Shambho' for a full 15 minutes. Some could sense Sadhguru's presence with us. The group leader also performed Guru Pooja. And then silently we were asked to get our sutras wet, the ones which we wore at Kathmadnu on the day of orientation, the same one which was acting as Sadhguru's insurance. Some of the volunteers partook in pouring water on the sutra on our wrists. Gouri was in an exalted state of her own. All these days she was in mouna and this was the culmination. Her energies were going in a sinusoidal wave with every passing moment. Each of the process step was inducing new states in her. 

Finally after about an hour, we were done and asked to quickly take some pics and have our lunch. Unlike other batches, who usually stay till 2 pm and reach camp site at 5, we had to take helis back to Simikot the same day. So we rushed. Quickly took a bunch of pics, some with group, some with just us, had our lunch in a small hut. It was indeed a wonder how the sherpas and ISW volunteers managed to get hot lunch at this godforsaken place! One can only imagine that they had had to get up at 4 am to prepare this back at Lapcha and then transport all the way till here along with us. There was so much variety of food too, and it was delicious! Truly remarkable indeed.

And then ISW had also managed to get a telescope set up so that we could take turns and glance at Lake Manasarovar and Mount Kailash up real close. That was awesome! While seeing through the telescope, it really did not matter that we were quite far. By about 12:30 we were done, and we started heading back. Apart from a breakdown of one of the jeeps for a short while, rest of the journey was uneventful. Everyone was happy, happy and thankful to Isha for getting the darshan done finally. We came quite fast with hardly any other stops and so we were back at campsite by 2:30 pm. 

The helis were already working on full swing, with the weather being good. The other batch (who had already visited the Kailash the previous day) had left in the morning, and our batch started leaving as soon as that batch got done. We quickly checked out of our tents, sherpas took our duffel bags and we took our backpacks and got ready for the heli ride back to Simikot. This was another longish ride but not at all turbulent. And just like that, we were back at Simikot. We waited at the airport (which also housed the helipad) for rest of our batch to join us. Meanwhile, the airplanes were transporting another batch from Nepalgunj to Simikot - and we were all exchanging the wonders of the adventure with one another.

It took quite a while for all of our batch to get to Simikot, but good thing is all of us did get to Simikot the same day. It would have been really difficult if the batch had again split. The batch did split a bit, about 10 of them even got the flight from Simikot to Nepalgunj but that was ok. There were no more flights after 3 pm to Nepalgunj, so we had to halt overnight. This time, we got another hotel, nearby to the airport. It was different but good. It was more of a dormitory for males, and females had to share 3 beds each. Once again, hot water problem, but most of us were ok because it was just one more day to Kathmandu! Some were lucky to get the hot water and they enjoyed their first bath after several days! This hotel had a nice big apple tree right in the middle of the courtyard, and it was wonderful! The dinner was at Bijay hotel, so we had to walk all the way up anyways. It had been quite a long day, so headed back to the room and slept off at 9 pm.

Chapter 15: Simikot to Nepalgunj to Kathmandu (Sep 6th 2022)

Got up early at about 5:30 am, freshened up and was about to leave to Bijay hotel for breakfast when we were told that the flights from Nepalgunj were already on the way to Simikot to pick us up. So we skipped breakfast, had just apples and headed to airport. Boy, were we glad that the weather was good! If not, we would have been stuck here, and our return flight back home was just next day! It took almost 2 hours for the flights to get to Simikot! But it was ok, for all of us. Some of them finished breakfast but most of us stayed put with apples. Finally, the flight arrived, and we got into it. It was not so suffocating this time although flight was same. Slept all the way to Nepalgunj except for last few minutes.

Three flights came one behind the other, that was about 45 of us. We had reached Nepalgunj at about 10-ish but two flights had to go back to Simikot, pick up rest of the batch and come to Nepalgunj. So all of us waited. It was so hot at Nepalgunj. We had spent close to 8 days in cold weather in Simikot, Hepka and Dakchi but did not once miss having a bath only because it was so cold at all those places. These few hours that we waited in Nepalgunj and we were all like wanting to have a bath as soon as possible! We somehow spent time, chit-chatting, karaoke-singing, etc. until rest of the batch joined us. Had lunch, very nice one, at the airport itself, and soon it was time to head back to KTM. Got our flight - and all of us were in this, just like how we came to Nepalgunj. After another uneventful journey of about an hour, we were back in Kathmandu airport.

Took our luggages, boarded our bus and an hour later about 4 pm, we were back in Radisson. Got new rooms assigned to us, and also got our stored luggages. We had 3 hours time to freshen up, so had a gala time taking bath! Last proper bath was on Aug 28th!! Once again, we had to pack and re-pack. I had another issue: my Hajmola bottle broke inside the duffel bag, so had to carefully manage the glass pieces. Some of them were stuck to clothes, etc. This reminded us of a glass bottle that broke during the Europe trip inside our backpack, and it was so tiresome!

For Paavani, I had arranged Covid test since it was mandatory for passengers without Covid vaccination to enter India. Thankfully Radisson made it easy although expensive, and got some medical clinicians to the hotel. At 7 pm, we had our final closing Satsang. Some of us shared our experience with the group, including Paavani. And then we played a small guessing game about how each person was in the group (character-wise). Our group leader performed the Guru Pooja, and thanked all the masters for making it possible. We also saw Sadhguru's video about how to be after Kailash sojourn. There was a talk about how one should 'leave something' of one's life after the pilgrimage. This reminded me of how people stopped eating some sweet, some fruit, etc. after a visit to major pilgrim centers like Badrinath, etc. but what Sadhguru said made sense - you need to leave something that is negative in you, like anger, nasty words, etc.. Something that will make you a better human being! Nowadays, after pilgrimage people leave food, sweets, etc. which they don't like anyways! How distorted the whole thing has become! After everything, we all danced to some of Sounds of Isha's catchy tunes. It was close to 10 pm, so headed to dinner for a quick grab, and then we bid adieu to most of the pilgrims, as we were not sure if we'd meet them again or not the next day. Back to the room, we packed our belongings and retired for the night. It was close to midnight, and we had an early morning wake up call to visit the Pashupathinath temple which some of us were visiting. It was an eventful night for wifey since she felt there were some disembodied being(s) in the room, and trying to pull her down from the bed! She also used to feel very disturbed every time we came to the room but was fine outside! Very strange indeed. Thankfully nothing untoward happened.

Chapter 16: Kathmandu to Delhi to Bengaluru (Sep 7th 2022)

So we woke up early, had bath and boarded the bus from the hotel. We were about 1 big bus and 1 small bus worth of passengers. We reached Pashupathinath temple at about 7 am. There were not much people at the temple as it had just opened. So we got inside and much to our surprise, there were far too many monkeys. And they were so active, some of them were jumping even on pilgrims heads, hands, etc. With great apprehension, we were all standing on the line! Finally we got our darshan of Lord Pashupathinath. And then someone claiming to be guide for ISW met us and took us around the temple explaining lot of details. He even gave details about why the city was called as Kathmandu, and also more details about the temple in specific. There were quite a few things to see in the temple premises like Bagmati river-view, a maze through a series of Lingas, etc. Since we were getting late, the group leader asked to keep the tour short, so he finally took us to a place where we could all sit and meditate for a moment. Some Brahmins assembled there and chanted few slokas, and then gave all of us Rudraksh mala. They told it is prasadam of this temple. We took a group pic and finally exited, back to the bus and back to our hotel. Breakfast was being served, we finished that and got back to our room for final checking-out. By about 10:30 am, we checked out and our shuttle to airport was at 11:45 am. Thankfully the Covid result for Paavani also came back as Negative, and I was glad that results came on time. So we had about an hour and we were wondering if we could visit one more of Kathmandu's famous place - Boudhanath Stupa. It was about 20 mins away. So we had very less time indeed.

Got into a taxi and we let him know that we had just one hour and we wanted to finish Boudhanath stupa. He said its possible and also that we can add Guhyeshwari Shakti Peeth temple within the hour. We were too skeptical about it. He drove as if we were in an ambulance on rush! It took almost 20 mins to reach Boudhanath Stupa. Not much there actually other than just a large stupa which is dome-like structure. We circumambulated the stupa, took some selfies and we were done in less than 10 mins. Of course, there were a number of shops if we had the time but we had to rush. Entry fee seemed unnecessary and unusually high. The driver then hurried us to Guhyeshwari temple. If we had sat there, perhaps Gouri would have felt the part of Sati which fell here but we did not have time to sit and meditate. Later we researched and came to know that this is the place where her hips or knees had fallen. It was already 11:30 am now, so the driver rushed again towards Radisson. Apparently our shuttle had already arrived at the airport and people in the shuttle (who knew we'd be in it) were trying to reach me. But I neither had the sim network or the data package, so both whatsapp and call neither reached me. Just as we entered the Radisson premises, the shuttle doors were closing. Thankfully someone saw us and asked the driver to wait. We hurried and got our luggages into the shuttle and off we were to the airport.

Airport formalities were done quickly and forex shops refused to convert the Nepalese currency back to INR, for some reason. I realized I should have done that at Radisson itself where there was an option. The wait at airport was quite long - almost 2+ hours. Finally got our flight. This time, it was not direct to BLR but to Delhi and then from there to BLR. Journey was to DEL was uneventful - we had meals and slept most of the way. At DEL airport, I was picked up by the officials for random Covid test. That took some time. After that, we finished our immigration, took our luggages and then used the transit pathway to check-in to BLR flight. It was quite a crowd and very haphazard. Post check-in was security. Huge, huge queue and very elaborate and slow checking procedure. Indira Gandhi airport is definitely not my favorite airports. Thankfully we had ample time. We then had dinner which was exorbitant, and then went to our gate to catch our flight to BLR. Another uneventful flight, but we were surprised to get dinner! Slept through rest of the journey, and we finally landed at BLR at midnight. Got our luggages, took the taxi which I had pre-booked and reached home safely at about 2 am on Sept 8th. Felt good to be back home, safe and sound! We did pranams to the deities for the safe trip and getting us back home hale and healthy.

Epilogue

Finally the desire of 2004 came true - almost 2 decades later! And with time, the cost had increased too. While it was 75K back in 2004, it now costed us almost 3.4L. The medicals costed Rs 12K per head. Add to this the program cost of Rs 2.85L, flight cost of Rs 22K & Decathlon shopping expenses, the whole trip costed us about Rs 10L for all three of us. That's in a nutshell for those of you who are wondering how much to budget for!

There are other blogs written about this trip by many who took up this sojourn (different batches, same batch, etc.) but there is one I keep referencing a lot (and telling others to read) by leading pulmonologist Dr Sujeet Rajan. His article came up on Seniors Today website. Lots of technical details are given in that website like cylinders, assembling of jeeps, food, etc. Also, some specific pics pertaining to the tent and the flight.

Perhaps the biggest miss was not being able to go closer to Mount Kailash (within Tibet itself) and unable to touch the waters of Lake Manasarovar, all thanks to Chinese Govt not allowing visas. If one had to enter Tibet for the Kailash sojourn, one only could do so via Indian Government. The application had to be filled (like ISW) early in the year, and one had to keep an eye out on National dailies to see when the application would open up and when it would close out, similar to Amarnath yatra. Also, the pilgrim had to go to New Delhi and spend a week there with all medical screening. Only upon successful results, would they be allowed ahead, which is another 20 days itinerary. So, all in all, it was a 25-day trip. Getting so many days off (both school and office) was extremely difficult. So, ISW was the next best option unless we wait for some more years when probably Chinese Govt would open up the visas for pilgrims. But then we would have aged further, and each passing year was difficult for medicals to clear. So, I guess it was ok. And anyways, even from distance, Sadhguru confirmed that Kailash and Manasarovar had the same vibrancy and energy, and even we all felt it.

Another thing that we all were looking forward to very much was the in-person Sadhguru's meet, which was promised as part of the itinerary for every batch. However, our batch was not lucky enough for the in-person meet. I guess weather was to be blamed, not sure though. Also, the Boudhanath Stupa (which we did on our own) was part of the ISW itinerary if we were back in Kathmandu about 2 days ago instead of the previous day. But at least we got to see it unlike the Darbar square, which we unfortunately could not see either through ISW or on our own due to lack of time - and that too despite landing in Kathmandu 2 days before sojourn start date! We did not visit earlier thinking it will happen via ISW. Anyways, maybe next time.

I guess ISW team figured out that the delays for all batches was caused due to the consistent bad weather at Hepka, and Hepka was the bottleneck. So 2 days after we left Hepka, the entire station was closed out, meaning remaining groups went directly from Simikot to Dakchi. That was a good move and easily saved a day even if one spent an extra day at Dakchi for acclimatization. Since Hepka got closed out, the ISW station volunteers of Hepka took up positions at remaining places like Dakchi, Simikot, Nepalgunj, etc. and we continued to meet them even after Hepka. 

Taking Paavani on this trip was definitely a huge risk. There is a reason for the age criterion and I guess we fully understand it after making the trip. I guess more than the age, there should be a minimum weight limitation that could be set up. Reason being, Paavani is 11 but not even 30 kgs, so hardly any fatty tissues to keep her warm. And all these matter at extreme temperatures. And AMS is deadly at high altitudes, far more dangerous than what we had experienced so far in other mountain areas, despite taking Diamox. Not really sure if we would risk it given another chance. But it was heart-warming to see the love and affection that she got from every single person on the sojourn - be it our batch mates or other batches or ISW volunteers or even sherpas. Everywhere I went, I was asked how she was doing. Every day morning, the usual question was "How is your daughter doing?" In fact, several of them knew my daughter's name but not my wife's or mine! We were called as "Paavani's parents"! That was an absolute honor!

The trip in itself was definitely memorable and unforgettable, thanks to all the adventure that we went through. Going to visit Lord Shiva's abode is no small thing and since time immemorial, people who visit Kailash have always been looked up to. Since the trip itself is so hard and getting back home alive itself is a great achievement, because not many could do that about 100-200 years ago, thanks to the harsh realities of the nature. And we literally could experience it (people looking up to us). When we wear the 'ISW Kailash Yatra' T-shirt and roam around Bangalore, most people would walk up to us and ask questions like 'Did you really go there? When? How? Did this young girl go too?' and there is always incredulity in the questions. And memories of that anna in the other batch who bowed and touched down my daughter's feet to the ISW volunteers who bowed down to us with total Namaskarams whilst we were on our way to Kailash, it has been a very, very humbling experience indeed. An experience that brings tears to our eyes even to this day, if we just think about it. We could not be grateful enough for having had this exhilarating experience of a momentous trip of our lives. So, to all the Gurus & Masters who made this happen...

Endaro Mahanubhavulu Andariki Vandanamulu! 🙏

Mount Kailash is to the right of Paavani's head (white).

Further to the right and below is Lake Manasarovar (blue).